Torque Wrench

Sand · Post by **Sand** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 5:15 pm

I will be checking the service manual to see if I need one for the little jobs I do. If not, yeah m ight as well put the money aside and wait

Confused · Post by **Confused** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 5:40 pm

Don't waste your money on a cheap torque wrench. Buy cheap, buy twice.

It's very simple how they work, there's nothing to learn - you set a torque value, turn it until it clicks or beeps (depending on what you've got), and you stop turning.

Most cheap ones won't be accurate enough at the lower torque levels, and that's where it matters most.

Post by **Donald** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:04 pm

Confused wrote:It's very simple how they work, there's nothing to learn - you set a torque value, turn it until it clicks or beeps (depending on what you've got), and you stop turning.

c_doughty1 wrote:Ok humour me but how do I measure 12 newton metres of torque.

Donald wrote:

Happy to help.

Post by **Doggo** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 7:11 pm

lewd lude lover wrote:If you are going to be taking engines to bits then a £30 torque wrench is not going to be your friend, maybe. Is it worth leaving it to chance....

Thats kinda my point. Anything that a torque wrench is not needed for you dont need one. For the jobs you do need one for you really want something of a bit of quality with a real guarentee of setting. When you get to jobs that you feel need torquing properly your £30 cheapy might leave you feeling a little parnoid.

I only say this as I have personal knowledge of someone relying on a torque wrench and it turning out to be a bit speshal. killed the engine...

Chaps, I tend to be a fan of buying best second hand over cheaper new. Would this work with a torque wrench or are they too easy to put out of whack? If it would work, what brands? Just a thought...

firstlude · Post by **firstlude** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 10:05 pm

going back to the oil filter i have just got one of the blueprint filters ads72101 from my local car factor for a mere £2.59

as for buying a second hand torque wrench unless you no who your buying it from you dont no if its been used with a tube on the end so you would at least need to have it calibrated before use

Craig_85 · Post by **Craig_85** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 6:46 am

They can be calibrated so you could go second hand..

Post by **lewd lude lover** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 1:07 pm

I also like to buy quality second hand rather than cheap new.

A decent bluepoint or the like second hand, once calibrated, will do great service for....generations?

I bought a rolson torque wrench years ago and ended up chucking it in a house move pogrom. I never used it once.

Post by **Vtecmec** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 4:02 pm

I assembled the entire car with this........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-1-2-Sq ... 27f0a485b6

A1ex · Post by **A1ex** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 3:32 pm

I work in a UKAS accredited test house so figures I'd get my cheap torque wrench calibrated;

Set at 28 Nm, broke at 26 Nm
Set at 70 Nm, broke at 64 Nm
Set at 112 Nm, broke at 105 Nm

Obviously not everyone can do this but interesting to see how far out my wrench is so can safely use it on my engine internals now

89 UKDM BA4 4WS (resto job!) · Post by **wurlycorner** » Mon Apr 20, 2015 4:59 pm

lewd lude lover wrote: In my experience all of those, and pretty much every job but for inner engine stuff, has a defined 'grunt' level all the way to 'really really tight'.

You ask pretty much any long term mechanic and they all just go by grunts rather than torques for everything but actual moving parts. I wouldn't worry too much about it if thats the level of involvement you are looking for. If you want to start taking out engine parts and putting them back in or taking the rocker cover off and fiddling with the internals then yes. Battery covers, wheel nuts and drain plugs?? Save the money and spend it on a magnetic drain plug. That will do you more good.

LLL sorry, your advice here is wrong, full stop.
Torque wrench all the way, ESPECIALLY for beginners. No argument, full stop, end of story.