Torque Wrench

[wurlycorner]

Don't waste your money on a cheap torque wrench. Buy cheap, buy twice.

Not necessarily. It's great if you can afford a sexy Norbar one etc but cheap ones can be fine as well (mine is just a Richmond one, but it's fine). To someone that's inexperienced and is working with steel studs in aluminium engines (or just with M6 bolts even in steel) they're way better than having no torque wrench. The natural tendency is always to over-tighten...

I work in a UKAS accredited test house so figures I'd get my cheap torque wrench calibrated;

Set at 28 Nm, broke at 26 Nm
Set at 70 Nm, broke at 64 Nm
Set at 112 Nm, broke at 105 Nm

Obviously not everyone can do this but interesting to see how far out my wrench is so can safely use it on my engine internals now

I did this with my cheapo Richmod one at work a couple of times, against calibrated torque meters. It was surprisingly accurate, even after 15 years of use. Hence my comment above.

[wurlycorner]

They can be calibrated so you could go second hand..

However you are probably looking around £30+ to get one calibrated, so if you're buying a second hand one with the intention of getting it calibrated, by the time you factor that in it might not work out much cheaper than buying an expensive one, new?

[jjmartin349571]

RE the comment about mechanics not using torque wrenches, one of my best mates is a mechanic and he always takes the body lemonade out of me when I get a torque wrench out for things like suspension bolts. I know that's only 1 person but I'm guessing that it's probably commonplace among folks in the trade from the sounds of it. Not saying it's best practice mind, I tend to use mine where I can.

[hondaman]

Ok, my sixpence worth after working on car and bikes for the last 35 years, I'd say yes a Torque wrench would be useful, I normally do my wheels nuts with one, as I've had them loosen off (due to an out of balance wheel) but strictly speaking its not needed for smaller jobs, you get a feel for just how much you can tighten parts up, maybe as a newbie your better off doing spark plugs with a Torque wrench, if you over do or break a plug in the head you'll be in a world of grief.

I've got both a 1/2 in and 3/8 and normally find the 1/2 in is the one I use most.

If you buy a recognised make, you'll be fine Silverline, Clarke, Draper, Sealey etc, I've had my 1/2 Draper Wrench bought from Argos for about £20 or £25 for the best part of 30 years and its still performing brilliantly.

One tip though and old mechanic told me once, after you've used a Torque Wrench always leave it back at O other wise its still under tension, and won't do it any good

linky linky --> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILVERLINE-1- ... 3ce5c781f1

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-1-2-Sq ... 4d19d6bde1

[bb1boy]

I've never owned/used a torque wrench..


..and I have sheared way too many threads/bolts.

[wurlycorner]

^^^^^

[bb1boy]

That was me supporting the vote for torque wrenches.

[wurlycorner]

Yep, I know!

[lewd lude lover]

I have never sheared anything but I am a master at cross threading

Deffo used to over torque wheel nuts and pretty much everything. Its true. You get a feel for tight, and just over tight.

[Craig_85]

They can be calibrated so you could go second hand..

However you are probably looking around £30+ to get one calibrated, so if you're buying a second hand one with the intention of getting it calibrated, by the time you factor that in it might not work out much cheaper than buying an expensive one, new?

Didn't think of that because I got both of my halfords ones done f.o.c. by a mate at a main dealer.