Hi guys new to the forums here I was thinking about buying a prelude as a first car and was wondering if there are any specific models or variants that are far superior. There are a few requirements though:
1:Under 10-15k
2:Manual
3:2 wheel steering
4:Not extremely hard to find/Imports
5:Relatively quick as I would like to do track days with my family
6:Be a solid foundation for upgrades and performance parts as when I get my next car I would like to turn this into a track car
A little information, I have driven for about a year now in my dads car it has 4 wheel steering and I hate it that’s why 2ws. My dad also has a heavily modified Cavalier that does 0-60 in 5.5s and maxes out at 170mph. I would like to be able to keep up to a relative degree when we drive together. If it can’t just having the capacity to do so with performance parts is enough as he only goes for track days 4 times a year So missing a few while saving up isn’t an issue.
Thanks for any help Ellis
Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.
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Welcome to the forum.
If this is to be your only car, a prelude probably isn't suitable for your requirements unless you are reasonably experienced DIY mechanic and have another car as a daily.
There are a few variants, but the fastest ones are those with the 2.2 engine (h22 variant). These come only in the 4th and 5th generation (The curvy one (94-97 I think), and the one with big headlights (97-00)). The UK only got the '2.2VTi' model on the 5th gen. Early ones (black cover) came with 185bhp, 19999 and 2000 years came with 200bhp (red valve cover). Pretty sure all VTi's came with 4ws. All of this information is on wikipedia however.
Apologies in advance if this is not what you want to hear but on each of your specific requirements:
1) most preludes are not worth big bucks, you will easily find them from £1k to £7k. 2litre auto is the cheapest, 2.2 manual is the most expensive.
2) Good luck finding a manual, if you browse autotrader or ebay or gumtree, you will see most of those for sale are autos, very few are manuals.
3) No need to discount the 4ws, I don't find its that obvious on track days at all. It's useful if you are trying to park in a car park. When my previous prelude was my daily, and the 4ws used to conk out occasionally, you certainly noticed it (turned into a bus turning circle wise). If you discount 4ws and want a 2.2, that limits your options. You can swap the rear subframe and parts but again that's a bit of work and not something to do if you are new to DIY car tinkering.
4) Regardless of import or not, they are hard to find. the 'How many left' website shows only about ~200 2.2 5th gen, and ~200 2.2 4th gen left last time I checked. Most of them are rusting out badly on the rear arches an inner arch and rear sill area. Because they tend to be reliable and well built, people put off preventative maintenance and then all the issues hit at once and they end up in the scrap pile.
5) The prelude is not a track car really - it wasn't designed to be, and you shouldn't ruin it by trying to make it one, unless it is specifically your goal for it to be only a track car. A 4th gen is probably better than a 5th for track use.
6) Quickness is not a strong point in stock form. Perhaps what you are after really is a Honda Integra type R? I've driven both on track, and you will only ruin your prelude trying to make it into an Integra which it will never be (performance wise). They are so much lighter and stiffer and have a much stronger after market parts scene than the prelude. I'd hazard a guess there are more Integra type r's to choose from than preludes (price is a bit higher overall at the bottom of the barrel, but its more car).
What car have you been driving? I would forget the idea of 'keeping up' to some degree with anything on a track day, because track days are not race days. It's not a competition. Please do not go to a track day if you want to race your dad for everyone's sake, you just end up ruining the track day for everyone else. This kind of attitude really spoils track days for others and I see it at most track days.
You mention saving up for parts and skipping track days, but have a 10 to 15k budget for a track car? Doesn't add up to me. Bare in mind that if you are borrowing money to make a track car, that money is not invested, you will literally be writing off 75% of the value. If you were to choose a different car, maybe the percentage is less.
Taking your ~25 year old Japanese car on a track day absolutely destroys every part of it. Your exhaust hangers will split and fall off. Your catalytic converter will break up and clog your exhaust, your brakes will boil and require constant rebuilding. Your bushes will wear out. Your rear heatshield will fall off and cook anything in the boot. Parts of the engine bay will rattle themselves loose including your engine mount bolts. You will burn through more 10w-50 than a cruise liner. I have stopped doing track days because its just not fair on the old girl - it will be nice for it to remain useable for a few years more. Also be aware that the value in the car these days lies with its originality. If you take a nice expensive manual prelude that you pay 5 to 7k for, and then track it with questionable mods, you will be lucky to sell it for 2.5k at any point afterwards most likely.
If you have £10k in the bank I would:
1) buy the cheapest DC2/DC5 ITR and use that as a track car. No need to mod at first. Maybe get one of the older civic type Rs instead, plenty of pre-modded ones already, bit cheaper.
2) Use the rest of the money to buy a sensible daily car so that your track car repairs don't get in the way of daily mobility. Nothing worse than spunking all your cash on a 25 year old prelude, but you can't go anywhere because the car is knackered (which if you track it, it will get knackered quickly and require many hours of fixing). Be aware that fixing takes time, effort, money and space on the driveway. Tracking down parts, physically retrieving them, and fitting them all adds to the burden.
If I was to re-run my prelude owning timeline I would have:
1) kept my nice prelude nice by not taking it on the track and doing stupid mods to it. I now have the double expense of undoing the track mods to make the car enjoyable for the road.
2) buy something cheap and disposable for track days, CTR/ITR, clio 182, mini etc etc.
Just my experience and advice, others will give theirs also. Don't get me wrong, you can still have fun in a prelude on track, i don't deny it, but it comes at the expense of being able to enjoy the prelude at other times (either because you ruined it or destroyed it).
If this is to be your only car, a prelude probably isn't suitable for your requirements unless you are reasonably experienced DIY mechanic and have another car as a daily.
There are a few variants, but the fastest ones are those with the 2.2 engine (h22 variant). These come only in the 4th and 5th generation (The curvy one (94-97 I think), and the one with big headlights (97-00)). The UK only got the '2.2VTi' model on the 5th gen. Early ones (black cover) came with 185bhp, 19999 and 2000 years came with 200bhp (red valve cover). Pretty sure all VTi's came with 4ws. All of this information is on wikipedia however.
Apologies in advance if this is not what you want to hear but on each of your specific requirements:
1) most preludes are not worth big bucks, you will easily find them from £1k to £7k. 2litre auto is the cheapest, 2.2 manual is the most expensive.
2) Good luck finding a manual, if you browse autotrader or ebay or gumtree, you will see most of those for sale are autos, very few are manuals.
3) No need to discount the 4ws, I don't find its that obvious on track days at all. It's useful if you are trying to park in a car park. When my previous prelude was my daily, and the 4ws used to conk out occasionally, you certainly noticed it (turned into a bus turning circle wise). If you discount 4ws and want a 2.2, that limits your options. You can swap the rear subframe and parts but again that's a bit of work and not something to do if you are new to DIY car tinkering.
4) Regardless of import or not, they are hard to find. the 'How many left' website shows only about ~200 2.2 5th gen, and ~200 2.2 4th gen left last time I checked. Most of them are rusting out badly on the rear arches an inner arch and rear sill area. Because they tend to be reliable and well built, people put off preventative maintenance and then all the issues hit at once and they end up in the scrap pile.
5) The prelude is not a track car really - it wasn't designed to be, and you shouldn't ruin it by trying to make it one, unless it is specifically your goal for it to be only a track car. A 4th gen is probably better than a 5th for track use.
6) Quickness is not a strong point in stock form. Perhaps what you are after really is a Honda Integra type R? I've driven both on track, and you will only ruin your prelude trying to make it into an Integra which it will never be (performance wise). They are so much lighter and stiffer and have a much stronger after market parts scene than the prelude. I'd hazard a guess there are more Integra type r's to choose from than preludes (price is a bit higher overall at the bottom of the barrel, but its more car).
What car have you been driving? I would forget the idea of 'keeping up' to some degree with anything on a track day, because track days are not race days. It's not a competition. Please do not go to a track day if you want to race your dad for everyone's sake, you just end up ruining the track day for everyone else. This kind of attitude really spoils track days for others and I see it at most track days.
You mention saving up for parts and skipping track days, but have a 10 to 15k budget for a track car? Doesn't add up to me. Bare in mind that if you are borrowing money to make a track car, that money is not invested, you will literally be writing off 75% of the value. If you were to choose a different car, maybe the percentage is less.
Taking your ~25 year old Japanese car on a track day absolutely destroys every part of it. Your exhaust hangers will split and fall off. Your catalytic converter will break up and clog your exhaust, your brakes will boil and require constant rebuilding. Your bushes will wear out. Your rear heatshield will fall off and cook anything in the boot. Parts of the engine bay will rattle themselves loose including your engine mount bolts. You will burn through more 10w-50 than a cruise liner. I have stopped doing track days because its just not fair on the old girl - it will be nice for it to remain useable for a few years more. Also be aware that the value in the car these days lies with its originality. If you take a nice expensive manual prelude that you pay 5 to 7k for, and then track it with questionable mods, you will be lucky to sell it for 2.5k at any point afterwards most likely.
If you have £10k in the bank I would:
1) buy the cheapest DC2/DC5 ITR and use that as a track car. No need to mod at first. Maybe get one of the older civic type Rs instead, plenty of pre-modded ones already, bit cheaper.
2) Use the rest of the money to buy a sensible daily car so that your track car repairs don't get in the way of daily mobility. Nothing worse than spunking all your cash on a 25 year old prelude, but you can't go anywhere because the car is knackered (which if you track it, it will get knackered quickly and require many hours of fixing). Be aware that fixing takes time, effort, money and space on the driveway. Tracking down parts, physically retrieving them, and fitting them all adds to the burden.
If I was to re-run my prelude owning timeline I would have:
1) kept my nice prelude nice by not taking it on the track and doing stupid mods to it. I now have the double expense of undoing the track mods to make the car enjoyable for the road.
2) buy something cheap and disposable for track days, CTR/ITR, clio 182, mini etc etc.
Just my experience and advice, others will give theirs also. Don't get me wrong, you can still have fun in a prelude on track, i don't deny it, but it comes at the expense of being able to enjoy the prelude at other times (either because you ruined it or destroyed it).
'00 UKDM 2.2VTI H22a8
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Thanks so much for this I really needed some advice although this may not be what I wanted to hear, valid information and experienced opinions are far more beneficial to me as a complete newcomer. I will probably attempt to buy a 1999+ vti bb6 that’s the 2ws and has slightly more hp or a vti-s version either way I would use it as a daily driver as I have fallen in love with them. And I can leave the track to a slightly more race built modern car.
Either way thanks, Ellis
Either way thanks, Ellis
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A few videos from one of my track days here: https://www.youtube.com/@prelude5229
Not terribly exciting but does show other cars and relative speeds. If you have not done many track days, it will highlight just how much of a pasting the car will take. Speedo not so visible but top of 2nd gear is 60mph, and top of 3rd gear is 85 (shorter than pre 99 cars).Not sure on this layout i get to the top end of 4th but that's about 115 indicated.
I'm pretty sure all my mods are done by this point which include the full Accord type R brake setup with race pads and fluid, full hard polybush kit and tein adjustable coilovers, along with track tyres (bit old and hard by that point), and the ATR differential. The engine/intake/exhaust is completely standard. Car is a 2000 year bb8 2.2vti with 4ws (200bhp h22a8 with 4ws).
I'm pretty sure in one of the videos on this day I clipped a cone which cracked the paint all over my Motegi front lip which was a pain. And I think the pads at the time were some older ferrodo ds2500's which had completely disintegrated when I inspected (and had to remove them). I'm pretty sure those were over £120quid a set, so factor in a few hundred quid just to keep on top of the brakes every 3 or 4 track days if you're leaning on them hard. And I think one of the drilled disks decided to start cracking from the drill/vent hole probably because I missed a cool down lap, so I had to replace the discs as well not long after (despite them being relatively new and no where near worn out). Bleed them every time naturally (before track and after the day), more cost and time. After a while, your significant other will get annoyed at having to help you bleed brakes, so you'll have to splunk 60quid on a set of one way bleed nipples so you can do it by yourself.
Not terribly exciting but does show other cars and relative speeds. If you have not done many track days, it will highlight just how much of a pasting the car will take. Speedo not so visible but top of 2nd gear is 60mph, and top of 3rd gear is 85 (shorter than pre 99 cars).Not sure on this layout i get to the top end of 4th but that's about 115 indicated.
I'm pretty sure all my mods are done by this point which include the full Accord type R brake setup with race pads and fluid, full hard polybush kit and tein adjustable coilovers, along with track tyres (bit old and hard by that point), and the ATR differential. The engine/intake/exhaust is completely standard. Car is a 2000 year bb8 2.2vti with 4ws (200bhp h22a8 with 4ws).
I'm pretty sure in one of the videos on this day I clipped a cone which cracked the paint all over my Motegi front lip which was a pain. And I think the pads at the time were some older ferrodo ds2500's which had completely disintegrated when I inspected (and had to remove them). I'm pretty sure those were over £120quid a set, so factor in a few hundred quid just to keep on top of the brakes every 3 or 4 track days if you're leaning on them hard. And I think one of the drilled disks decided to start cracking from the drill/vent hole probably because I missed a cool down lap, so I had to replace the discs as well not long after (despite them being relatively new and no where near worn out). Bleed them every time naturally (before track and after the day), more cost and time. After a while, your significant other will get annoyed at having to help you bleed brakes, so you'll have to splunk 60quid on a set of one way bleed nipples so you can do it by yourself.
'00 UKDM 2.2VTI H22a8
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Hi Ellis,
Scott has given some sound advice, he always does, all of which i agree with - i think the only way your going to get close to what your after is to spend around 5/6k of the budget on a reasonable prelude, and the rest on having a custom turbo h22 built and fitted to get close to the 0-60 in 5.5s and max out at 170mph aim you have, but i think the budget still wont be enough.
if its a track car ONLY, so not road legal you have an option to spend less on a reasonably good quality road lude and get one that isnt great bodywise but one you can strip for lightness and not have to think about legalities. good power-weight ratio always helps, especially on quite heavy cars like preludes.
i have a road & track lude which is a built N/A but (when its working ) holds very well against most cars on the track. it helps having a shorter ratio gearbox but this will bring down your top speed, more so if you fitted a 5.1 box instead of the 4.64 i have but the low down acceleration will increase.
when on track, i still have no chance of keeping up with big boy turbo cars, especially modern ones unless the driver is useless - which luckily is quite often the case on a track day. this is why a turbo build in my option would be better for what you'd aiming for, if you are set on a lude. getting a civic type R with a k20 and turbo'ing one of those would be more cost effective i think, if it's just Honda you want to keep with. DC5's are a natural track car, but not cheap to buy in the first place, but a stock or even just remapped standard one are a brilliant track and road machine - although ive driven them on the road and track and as great as they were, it didnt give me any of the old skool lude "fizz" while driving them, i'd rather a rusty lude trying its best anyday, but that's just me!
my build is here if it helps at all.
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1400
Scott has given some sound advice, he always does, all of which i agree with - i think the only way your going to get close to what your after is to spend around 5/6k of the budget on a reasonable prelude, and the rest on having a custom turbo h22 built and fitted to get close to the 0-60 in 5.5s and max out at 170mph aim you have, but i think the budget still wont be enough.
if its a track car ONLY, so not road legal you have an option to spend less on a reasonably good quality road lude and get one that isnt great bodywise but one you can strip for lightness and not have to think about legalities. good power-weight ratio always helps, especially on quite heavy cars like preludes.
i have a road & track lude which is a built N/A but (when its working ) holds very well against most cars on the track. it helps having a shorter ratio gearbox but this will bring down your top speed, more so if you fitted a 5.1 box instead of the 4.64 i have but the low down acceleration will increase.
when on track, i still have no chance of keeping up with big boy turbo cars, especially modern ones unless the driver is useless - which luckily is quite often the case on a track day. this is why a turbo build in my option would be better for what you'd aiming for, if you are set on a lude. getting a civic type R with a k20 and turbo'ing one of those would be more cost effective i think, if it's just Honda you want to keep with. DC5's are a natural track car, but not cheap to buy in the first place, but a stock or even just remapped standard one are a brilliant track and road machine - although ive driven them on the road and track and as great as they were, it didnt give me any of the old skool lude "fizz" while driving them, i'd rather a rusty lude trying its best anyday, but that's just me!
my build is here if it helps at all.
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=1400
2.2 JDM DOHC SI-VTEC LSD TCS 4WS ABS BB1 MANUAL 1992
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Civic type R or Mazda MX5 are good daily drivers and fun on the occasional track day. Not mega expensive. Plenty aftermarket support for both.
Your standard unmodified prelude would keep up with the civic and mx5 on track but you would have to spend £10-£20k modifying your prelude to give it a fair chance of keeping up with other track focused and modern turbo cars.
If you do get a prelude try to keep it pretty much standard. Ive owned and daily driven preludes for well over 20 years and i enjoy them for what they are - great looks & rarity, honda reliability, good sensation of speed, sharp handling and easy to work on.
Your standard unmodified prelude would keep up with the civic and mx5 on track but you would have to spend £10-£20k modifying your prelude to give it a fair chance of keeping up with other track focused and modern turbo cars.
If you do get a prelude try to keep it pretty much standard. Ive owned and daily driven preludes for well over 20 years and i enjoy them for what they are - great looks & rarity, honda reliability, good sensation of speed, sharp handling and easy to work on.
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2000-2019 1994 2WS BB4 Milano Red JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2015 on > 1991 4WS BB1 Phantom Pearl Grey JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2021 ON > 1998 2WS BB6 White Pearl JDM Prelude Si VTEC