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'99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.
- BlackShadow
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:25 am
- My Generation: 5G
- Location: Whitby. Not THAT Whitby, the other Whitby, the one in Durham. Not THAT Durham, the other Durham.
Re: '99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.
Alright, I've been slacking a bit lately. Work and other things have been taking up my time and energy, plus I have been working to set the 4th gen right for the winter.
I set to work on some suspension parts and some of the brackets. They were really rusty and I wanted to try out a new method of rust removal. I have tried scraping, wire wheels, sanding, blasting, and rust nuking chemicals. Most are a pain in the ass. The last thing I tried is the cheapest and the easiest method, and it actually works!
Plain white vinegar. Yes, what you shake over your fish and chips, what your great aunt fran used to make her home made pickles with, and if you're of European descent, what your dear old mum still uses to clean the house with. Four litres for like a buck.
1)Pour it into a container you won't be caring about.
2)Sumberge the parts in the vinegar.
3) Get on with your life for a week or so.
When you come back, this is what you will find:
Gross.
Use pliers or something to grab the parts out, unless you're feeling adventurous and want to stick your hand in that mess. It stains your skin, so wear gloves. It also stains anything else it comes in contact with, so don't wear anything you care about when working around this stuff.
Here's the cool part! Take the part you are working on, and brush it with a toothbrush, or even a wire brush if you like. I found an old toothbrush worked great. The rust will brush off. if there's any tricky bits, use the brush and a bit more vinegar to scrub it off. Then rinse with water.
This was after about a week of soaking in the vinegar:
I have on order some Ferrea 5000 series valves, and I picked up a EuroExport valve spring compressor. I'll post up my impressions of those when the valves come in, and I get around to putting them in.
One thing I can show you now are these pretty little things:
Special delivery, courtesy of JLude on preludepower.
I'm not going to lie, I was tempted to lick them, they're so sexy.
I set to work on some suspension parts and some of the brackets. They were really rusty and I wanted to try out a new method of rust removal. I have tried scraping, wire wheels, sanding, blasting, and rust nuking chemicals. Most are a pain in the ass. The last thing I tried is the cheapest and the easiest method, and it actually works!
Plain white vinegar. Yes, what you shake over your fish and chips, what your great aunt fran used to make her home made pickles with, and if you're of European descent, what your dear old mum still uses to clean the house with. Four litres for like a buck.
1)Pour it into a container you won't be caring about.
2)Sumberge the parts in the vinegar.
3) Get on with your life for a week or so.
When you come back, this is what you will find:
Gross.
Use pliers or something to grab the parts out, unless you're feeling adventurous and want to stick your hand in that mess. It stains your skin, so wear gloves. It also stains anything else it comes in contact with, so don't wear anything you care about when working around this stuff.
Here's the cool part! Take the part you are working on, and brush it with a toothbrush, or even a wire brush if you like. I found an old toothbrush worked great. The rust will brush off. if there's any tricky bits, use the brush and a bit more vinegar to scrub it off. Then rinse with water.
This was after about a week of soaking in the vinegar:
I have on order some Ferrea 5000 series valves, and I picked up a EuroExport valve spring compressor. I'll post up my impressions of those when the valves come in, and I get around to putting them in.
One thing I can show you now are these pretty little things:
Special delivery, courtesy of JLude on preludepower.
I'm not going to lie, I was tempted to lick them, they're so sexy.
1997 Prelude Base (wrecked)
1996 Prelude SR (sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi (Sold)
Current:
1999 Prelude Base (S-Spec build in progress)
1990 Nissan 300ZX (weee!)
2011 Ford CVPI (daily)
1957 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1996 Prelude SR (sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi (Sold)
Current:
1999 Prelude Base (S-Spec build in progress)
1990 Nissan 300ZX (weee!)
2011 Ford CVPI (daily)
1957 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
- mercutio
- LotM Winner
- Posts: 14958
- Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:45 pm
- My Generation: 5G
- Location: Sunny Manchester
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 3 times
- Contact:
lights are cool jlude is making me a set
bristol_bb4 wrote:ahhh a 5th gen, i love 5th gens
Dino wrote:I loves the 5th gen really.... just dont quote me on it...
4thgenphil wrote:Mines 4 1/4 unches mate, sorry
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... -t618.html
- wurlycorner
- Ye are glad to be dead, RIGHT?
- Posts: 21386
- Joined: Sat May 19, 2012 3:33 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Chelmsford, Essex
- Has thanked: 2260 times
- Been thanked: 282 times
- BlackShadow
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:25 am
- My Generation: 5G
- Location: Whitby. Not THAT Whitby, the other Whitby, the one in Durham. Not THAT Durham, the other Durham.
Re: '99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.
@ Vtecmec: An electric toothbrush.. that's an amazing idea! I'm going to look into getting one for this as well.
@mercutio: You'll love them! The best part is, they cost the same as new lights from a dealer (in my neck of the woods at least).
@wurlycorner: I'm not sure exactly how Jlude does what he does, but the results are fabulous. I know for a fact he has to open the units up to fit the shrouds, but beyond that, he doesn't leave any "tracks". Even the re-sealing of the lights is OEM clean. I'm really impressed with how professional they look.
@mercutio: You'll love them! The best part is, they cost the same as new lights from a dealer (in my neck of the woods at least).
@wurlycorner: I'm not sure exactly how Jlude does what he does, but the results are fabulous. I know for a fact he has to open the units up to fit the shrouds, but beyond that, he doesn't leave any "tracks". Even the re-sealing of the lights is OEM clean. I'm really impressed with how professional they look.
1997 Prelude Base (wrecked)
1996 Prelude SR (sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi (Sold)
Current:
1999 Prelude Base (S-Spec build in progress)
1990 Nissan 300ZX (weee!)
2011 Ford CVPI (daily)
1957 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1996 Prelude SR (sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi (Sold)
Current:
1999 Prelude Base (S-Spec build in progress)
1990 Nissan 300ZX (weee!)
2011 Ford CVPI (daily)
1957 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
- BlackShadow
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:25 am
- My Generation: 5G
- Location: Whitby. Not THAT Whitby, the other Whitby, the one in Durham. Not THAT Durham, the other Durham.
Re: '99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.
I have been putting in a little more time on the lude lately...mainly since I'm waiting for parts for the 96 to come in... I'll rant about that in my 96 resto/build thread.
I started cleaning up the alternator, and polishing it up. I can't go to all this trouble and not clean up the ancillaries. I'll probably end up taking it apart and doing a proper job on the casing, then inspecting the guts and freshening up anything that could be fresher.
This is what I have so far with a file, emery cloth, a dental pick and a worn out/used sanding disc, folded in half:
Why not buy a new one?
There's a couple reasons for this:
1) I haven't had great experiences with new/aftermarket parts. Lights for example: The original head light bulbs lasted from 1998-2010. I replaced them, and within a week both brand new bulbs had blown again. Over the years it seems they "refine" their manufacturing process and shave off some reliability here and there. If it works and can be saved, I'll keep it and use it.
2) Cost. Anyone who has done work like this knows how quickly the cost can add up. Saving a penny here and there halps a lot.
3) I am old school. I used to work at a classic car dealer, and had to work with parts that were difficult, if not impossible to get/replace.
Things are a little better these days, with the internet and forums and all, but when I worked there, you had to comb junk yards, or order new from places like Canter or Caidella if they stock the parts for your particular vehicle. If you had something older, or imported, you'd have to pay a fortune for new (if available), use what you have, or have it fabricated.
Even though parts for this car are easier to come by, they might not be in the future, and in anycase, elbow grease is a lot cheaper than buying brand new. I am starting to find that parts for the 92-96 Preludes are becoming harder and harder to find. Honda has discontinued a lot of parts for that chassis, and I'm sure the 97-01 are not far behind. Those contemplating this type of work may be forced to hone their fabrication/restoration skills.
I thrive on the challenge of real restoration work. Buying brand new is easy, it's quicker, but I have always admired the craftsmanship of a true restoration. The blood, sweat, and, tears. The thought, the hours of careful and meticulous labour. When you put a piece of yourself into a piece, or pieces of what you're building, the pay off is immeasurable.
I started cleaning up the alternator, and polishing it up. I can't go to all this trouble and not clean up the ancillaries. I'll probably end up taking it apart and doing a proper job on the casing, then inspecting the guts and freshening up anything that could be fresher.
This is what I have so far with a file, emery cloth, a dental pick and a worn out/used sanding disc, folded in half:
Why not buy a new one?
There's a couple reasons for this:
1) I haven't had great experiences with new/aftermarket parts. Lights for example: The original head light bulbs lasted from 1998-2010. I replaced them, and within a week both brand new bulbs had blown again. Over the years it seems they "refine" their manufacturing process and shave off some reliability here and there. If it works and can be saved, I'll keep it and use it.
2) Cost. Anyone who has done work like this knows how quickly the cost can add up. Saving a penny here and there halps a lot.
3) I am old school. I used to work at a classic car dealer, and had to work with parts that were difficult, if not impossible to get/replace.
Things are a little better these days, with the internet and forums and all, but when I worked there, you had to comb junk yards, or order new from places like Canter or Caidella if they stock the parts for your particular vehicle. If you had something older, or imported, you'd have to pay a fortune for new (if available), use what you have, or have it fabricated.
Even though parts for this car are easier to come by, they might not be in the future, and in anycase, elbow grease is a lot cheaper than buying brand new. I am starting to find that parts for the 92-96 Preludes are becoming harder and harder to find. Honda has discontinued a lot of parts for that chassis, and I'm sure the 97-01 are not far behind. Those contemplating this type of work may be forced to hone their fabrication/restoration skills.
I thrive on the challenge of real restoration work. Buying brand new is easy, it's quicker, but I have always admired the craftsmanship of a true restoration. The blood, sweat, and, tears. The thought, the hours of careful and meticulous labour. When you put a piece of yourself into a piece, or pieces of what you're building, the pay off is immeasurable.
1997 Prelude Base (wrecked)
1996 Prelude SR (sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi (Sold)
Current:
1999 Prelude Base (S-Spec build in progress)
1990 Nissan 300ZX (weee!)
2011 Ford CVPI (daily)
1957 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1996 Prelude SR (sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi (Sold)
Current:
1999 Prelude Base (S-Spec build in progress)
1990 Nissan 300ZX (weee!)
2011 Ford CVPI (daily)
1957 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
- mercutio
- LotM Winner
- Posts: 14958
- Joined: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:45 pm
- My Generation: 5G
- Location: Sunny Manchester
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 3 times
- Contact:
I used to love going to scrapyards combing through wrecks for little bits
bristol_bb4 wrote:ahhh a 5th gen, i love 5th gens
Dino wrote:I loves the 5th gen really.... just dont quote me on it...
4thgenphil wrote:Mines 4 1/4 unches mate, sorry
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/profile ... -t618.html
- wurlycorner
- Ye are glad to be dead, RIGHT?
- Posts: 21386
- Joined: Sat May 19, 2012 3:33 pm
- My Generation: 4G
- Location: Chelmsford, Essex
- Has thanked: 2260 times
- Been thanked: 282 times
- BlackShadow
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:25 am
- My Generation: 5G
- Location: Whitby. Not THAT Whitby, the other Whitby, the one in Durham. Not THAT Durham, the other Durham.
Re: '99 BB6 "nut and bolt" restoration.
I'm still waiting for my valves to arrive, so in the meantime I have been working on the alternator here and there when I get a chance. I'm gradually getting the tool marks out of the surface so it can be polished up to a mirror shine.
I also embarked upon a bigger project. As you know (or should know) the Type-S head comes from the factory with a mild port and polish on it to smooth out the transition where the valve seats meet the bowls. They stopped where the valve guides protrude into the bowls. The rest of the ports/chambers are still rough cast and have large casting imperfections on them. Well...
Better than the standard h22 head...
I could improve upon that.
I started to do a full port and polish on the head by hand: (no dremels, no die grinders, no mechanical assistance what so ever).
It's taken two days to get it to this semi-finished state. There's still some rough spots. There's still 7 more to go.
Lots of work left to do.
I also embarked upon a bigger project. As you know (or should know) the Type-S head comes from the factory with a mild port and polish on it to smooth out the transition where the valve seats meet the bowls. They stopped where the valve guides protrude into the bowls. The rest of the ports/chambers are still rough cast and have large casting imperfections on them. Well...
Better than the standard h22 head...
I could improve upon that.
I started to do a full port and polish on the head by hand: (no dremels, no die grinders, no mechanical assistance what so ever).
It's taken two days to get it to this semi-finished state. There's still some rough spots. There's still 7 more to go.
Lots of work left to do.
1997 Prelude Base (wrecked)
1996 Prelude SR (sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi (Sold)
Current:
1999 Prelude Base (S-Spec build in progress)
1990 Nissan 300ZX (weee!)
2011 Ford CVPI (daily)
1957 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1996 Prelude SR (sold)
1994 Subaru SVX LSi (Sold)
Current:
1999 Prelude Base (S-Spec build in progress)
1990 Nissan 300ZX (weee!)
2011 Ford CVPI (daily)
1957 Cadillac Coupe de Ville