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Charged K20a Prelude Type S
Re: Charged K20a Prelude Type S
Thanks! Bennyboy, only the very front one to get perfect now! The other 3 fit perfectly and as everything is CAD drawn I can make a set if anybody wants to go down the K20 route!
The electric power steering is relatively simple to install. Its a second generation Toyota MR2 pump made by Toyoda (that's not a spelling mistake). Its got an onboard ECU and apparently the MR2 outputs the same VSS signal as our H22 and K20 gbox's, therefore once hooked up the PS pump will power down at highway speeds etc. I've had to purchase a big 100a resettable trip & a big 100a relay, this is wired in directly to my battery cut off switch and will be wired into a switch on the dashboard so I can turn the unit on or off.
Ive had a high pressure hydraulic line made up that goes from the pump to the rack, then used a 45° hose fitting on the return side along with the stock metal pipe that includes the cooler. It keeps the runs nice and tidy and away from the exhaust.
Any ABS experts on here? I am having trouble with my ABS. The ABS light is illuminated and won't go out but is throwing no codes on the cluster. The only difference is I don't have the original ECU, so is there a power, earth or VSS signal that could be missing? I also don't have ATTS any longer, and the car will not start if the ATTS ECU is not installed!!! I see that the ABS outputs all 4 wheel signals to the ATTS computer but I can't see any other wires to and from.. Any thoughts on what I could try?
The electric power steering is relatively simple to install. Its a second generation Toyota MR2 pump made by Toyoda (that's not a spelling mistake). Its got an onboard ECU and apparently the MR2 outputs the same VSS signal as our H22 and K20 gbox's, therefore once hooked up the PS pump will power down at highway speeds etc. I've had to purchase a big 100a resettable trip & a big 100a relay, this is wired in directly to my battery cut off switch and will be wired into a switch on the dashboard so I can turn the unit on or off.
Ive had a high pressure hydraulic line made up that goes from the pump to the rack, then used a 45° hose fitting on the return side along with the stock metal pipe that includes the cooler. It keeps the runs nice and tidy and away from the exhaust.
Any ABS experts on here? I am having trouble with my ABS. The ABS light is illuminated and won't go out but is throwing no codes on the cluster. The only difference is I don't have the original ECU, so is there a power, earth or VSS signal that could be missing? I also don't have ATTS any longer, and the car will not start if the ATTS ECU is not installed!!! I see that the ABS outputs all 4 wheel signals to the ATTS computer but I can't see any other wires to and from.. Any thoughts on what I could try?
- RattyMcClelland
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Re: Charged K20a Prelude Type S
Looking at the diagrams the only difference is the active ABS has outputs for each wheel sensor to the ATTS unit, I have not yet discovered any other wiring differences. This leads me to believe its got to be a power/earth problem.
I am working through the ABS fault find flow diagram but am struggling to find the 22p connector. Is the ABS ECU attached to the SRS ECU or is it located somewhere else entirely?
I am working through the ABS fault find flow diagram but am struggling to find the 22p connector. Is the ABS ECU attached to the SRS ECU or is it located somewhere else entirely?
Re: Charged K20a Prelude Type S
Cheers Cutz! The info was very handy, thanks!
So unfortunately there may be some more issues. I was tidying up the car, checking the oil levels etc and found there was some slight sludgy poo on the underside of the filler cap...
I have never experienced this problem before so any thoughts on this are appreciated:
I am 99% sure the headgasket is fine.
The water pump housing channels the water flow into the engine but also there is a crank ventilation passage to a breather, these are sealed off by a rubber o-ring. There is a possibility that the o-ring could not have sealed correctly when I fitted the pump housing back on.
My last thought is it could merely be condensation. When the engine wasn't being worked on it was covered over with clean rags but moisture could still circulate, it was reasonably cold the last couple of months. So now since the engine has been running could it be that the moisture inside the engine has evaporated and condensed on the rocker cover?
I drained the oil and could only see one tiny bit of cream... Would it be safe to run the engine after cleaning the rocker cover, remove any sludgy bits I can see in the head & then flush the engine through with a few oil changes?
Pictures below:
And my last question is what colour do you think I should redo the rocker cover? Considering I have a black and silver theme I was thinking of getting it powdercoated textured matt black along with the spark plug cover, it should compliment the dip stock and oil filler cap nicely, what do you guys reckon?
So unfortunately there may be some more issues. I was tidying up the car, checking the oil levels etc and found there was some slight sludgy poo on the underside of the filler cap...
I have never experienced this problem before so any thoughts on this are appreciated:
I am 99% sure the headgasket is fine.
The water pump housing channels the water flow into the engine but also there is a crank ventilation passage to a breather, these are sealed off by a rubber o-ring. There is a possibility that the o-ring could not have sealed correctly when I fitted the pump housing back on.
My last thought is it could merely be condensation. When the engine wasn't being worked on it was covered over with clean rags but moisture could still circulate, it was reasonably cold the last couple of months. So now since the engine has been running could it be that the moisture inside the engine has evaporated and condensed on the rocker cover?
I drained the oil and could only see one tiny bit of cream... Would it be safe to run the engine after cleaning the rocker cover, remove any sludgy bits I can see in the head & then flush the engine through with a few oil changes?
Pictures below:
And my last question is what colour do you think I should redo the rocker cover? Considering I have a black and silver theme I was thinking of getting it powdercoated textured matt black along with the spark plug cover, it should compliment the dip stock and oil filler cap nicely, what do you guys reckon?
- mercutio
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will probably be just condensation
bristol_bb4 wrote:ahhh a 5th gen, i love 5th gens
Dino wrote:I loves the 5th gen really.... just dont quote me on it...
4thgenphil wrote:Mines 4 1/4 unches mate, sorry
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- NafemanNathan
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- wurlycorner
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rocker looks good, I wouldn't go through all the trouble painting it again
H22a5 UKDM 2.2 VTI 244Bhp 180lbs/ft Crower stage 2
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