My Honda Accord 2.2 ICTDI Diesel 4 Door Saloon

[jjmartin349571]

That looks great, very subtle

[mercutio]

well done

[prelude_h22]

Thanks guys
Really happy with them, so glad I didn't go for the OEM Honda ones as they cost over 400 quid.
This kit is great value for money.

[prelude_h22]

Hi All
I thought I would update my thread and let you know what I have been up too since my last update.


Brakes (Strip /Clean & Inspect) 30-08-14


Today I decided to have a go at stripping down the brakes and giving them a good clean.
It would also give me an opportunity to have a closer look at the condition of the brake pads, slider pins and discs.

After a good read of some of the guides on here and comparing it to the Prelude’s braking system there wasn’t much difference except on the Accord’s front calliper slider bolt was a hex 7mm instead of a standard type bolt. Confirmation from the guys on here and that my tool set had this bit I was ready to give it a go.

I recently purchased a brand new set of genuine Honda front and rear Brake pads ready for the job. A quick glance at the car the pads seemed to be approx half used but due to the pads being on a special offer I thought I would make the most of it and purchase them and either use them or save them for when they are needed

Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Web: http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/
Part: Genuine Front Brake Pads
Part Number: 45022SEAE01

Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Web: http://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/
Part: Genuine Rear Brake Pads
Part Number: 43022SEAE10








I started with the rears first and as soon as I attempted to loosed the off side top calliper bolt it started to give me grief. One twist of the socket wrench the head of the bolt snapped off L

I removed the calliper slider to see the damage








Quite annoyed at this point but I decided to continue with the job and assess the other callipers.

Calliper resting on lower arm



Rubber boots also removed and cleaned




After around an hour or so the rears were done. No other troubles were experienced.

The only thing noticed is that the both the rear pistons were quite tough to wind back. It would seem that the piston was slightly seized. The Handbrake previously working ok I thought I would leave it for now and look to replace it maybe next year.

A Laser brake piston re-wind tool was used
Model: 1314

The current rear pads were genuine Honda with half of the pad left. I decided to continue using them and save the new ones until a brake calliper replacement is performed.

Threebond silicon grease was used for the calliper sliders and standard copper grease for the rears of the pads.



The front callipers were next and all went well.



The retaining pin was a little tricky to get back on but it was easier than I was expecting.

The calliper pistons were both in very good condition



The brake pads on the fronts were not genuine Honda although they did have half of the pad remaining I also decided to keep using them until they needed replacing.

Pic of current pad against a brand new pad




Current condition of front pads




A quick check on lings.com showed that the calliper slider was not available to purchase as single unit and only a set with the calliper carrier at around £60. I was quite worried by this point but I then checked a few of the big brake remanufacturer companies: Bigg RED and Brakes international and both offer the calliper slider as a small kit or single units.

I decided to go the just the single unit from Big Red Brakes at £6.95
Very relieved by this point and hopeful that the Accord will be back on the road in no time

Supplier: Bigg Red Ltd
Web: http://www.biggred.co.uk/
also on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Accord- ... 417c19f40f
Part: Rear Brake Slider Bolt
Part Number: 1236

With the rear calliper slider fully installed I used a slider bolt from the new brake pad kit from Honda and the brake calliper operation is now fully restored.

Conclusion

With all the brakes now completed I was still annoyed at the seized bolt on the rear calliper slider. It would seem that the previous garage may have done them to tight or it would seem they were not serviced for a long time. The fronts seemed well looked after and it would seem the garages only paid attention to the front. There were no copper grease to the pads at all and it all seemed really dry. Either way they have now been serviced and confident that they will perform for the coming winter.

All discs had a slight lipped edge but plenty of life left in them


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Installation of Locking Wheel Nuts 06-09-14

Whist browsing eBay I managed to source a set of genuine Honda locking nuts.
What a bargain at £7.00 posted and in pretty good condition too.

All cleaned up




And installed on the car J




Supplier: Ebay
Web: http://www.ebay.co.uk/
Part: Alloy wheel locking wheel nuts (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 08W42-SJD-602

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Fuel Angel 19-10-14

During my ownership of my previous car (Seat Arosa SDI diesel) I accidently filled the car up with petrol after being distracted at the petrol station forecourt my other member of the public. I picked up the wrong pump and fuelled the Arosa with petrol. Not realising I did this after 25 miles the car stuttered and stopped. After an expensive bleeding session from the AA at the time the car was back on the road. Thankfully at the time the Arosa was a very early simplistic diesel engine so no damage was done. It happily gave 3 more years of service before trading it in for Accord.

Its something none of us want to admit and most of the time I double check now which pump I am picking up (makes it worse as my other car is a petrol prelude) but it is just peace of mind really.
Having bad memories of that situation and knowing the aftermath will not be the same for the Accord due to the Accord having a complex common rail engine any petrol inside will have disastrous effects. I thought I should have something in place to prevent that from happening, again after browsing eBay I found a fuel angel adapter which simply screws into the filler section and prevents the petrol pump hose from fitting. An easy buy at £10 posted it was a bargain (original cost is approx £45.00).

Fuel Angel





Fitted to car






Original Website of Fuel angle for info: http://www.misfuellingprevention.co.uk/

Supplier: Ebay
Web: http://www.ebay.co.uk/
Part: Fuel Angel Device
Part Number: MPD-002

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Front Fender Side Light Bulb Access (To change side light bulbs 501s) 08-11-14

It was time to change the side light bulbs as both were now blown.
I double checked the handbook and two clips are to be removed from the front fender, peel back, reach in, grab and twist the bulb holder and pull out. Relatively simple.
All bulbs replaced fine
Unfortunately the clips that hold the fender all broke
The fender stays in place ok but ideally I need to replace them

A quick check on Lings and the help of Honda Karma members revealed that the part I required is



Supplier: Honda
Web: Honda.co.uk
Part: Fender Clips
Part Number: 91503SZ3003 Item 21
I bought an equivalent ton eBay which was considerably cheaper and fitted perfectly
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280979075830? ... 80&afsrc=1



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Heated Seats Illuminations Bulb 12-11-14

Just recently I have noticed that the passenger side heated seat switch illumination has not stopped functioning.
A quick check revealed that it is actually the bulb that has gone and was not the bulb being loose within its fixture.

Many thanks to Ichiban for the guide on replacing the bulb within the switch
http://hondakarma.com/threads/switch-il ... bulbs.408/




Before


The bulbs – original on the left (blue sleeve placed will be placed on new alternative bulb with blue base)





Restored


I didn’t want to pay Honda prices for the bulbs so I found an alternative which was very competively priced at £2.30 posted for a pair

Supplier: Autobulbs Direct
Part: T3 bulb
Part Number: R509TJBR 60MA T3 Panel Bulb

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New Alternator 13-12-14

Just before Christmas my alternator started to make the dreaded clicking and whirring sound. I did update the belt routing back in April when I bought the car so I am thankful it has lasted this long.
I had a few quotes and it was better value to change the alternator than repairing the existing one.
There are many re-manufactured one available but not wanting to repeat this process again I decided to go for a genuine Honda alternator.

Video of Alternator clicking /Whirring sound




Potential parts needed to rebuild alternator




Old Alternator Removed




Brand New Genuine Alternator





I was thinking of buying the tensioner tool to do the job as i would love to give it a go myself but had a thought and I would probably not use the tensioner tool again unless something else goes within the aux belt area, and if I came across those rusty bolts which hold the lower fan shroud I would be abit stuck.
I thought it would probably be much easier to pay my mechanic friend £45 to do the alternator swap (I always try to avoid any car work in the winter)

The job took a few hours in the freezing cold and it was done J
Funny thing is my mechanic friend didn’t have the auz belt tool and did it the old fashion way using a crow bar to gently move the tenioner







With the new al;ternator installed the noise disappeared and it is now running smooth and quiet

Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: Alternator
Part Number: 31100RBDE02

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Foot Well Lights (Genuine Honda Part) 10-01-15

I have always wanted foot well lights in the Accord and have played with the thought that they are easy to do myself. However until I found out that Honda actually do a genuine option accessory upgrade I jumped at the thought to get a set. Fortunately they were still available at my local Honda dealer and were in stock.
I purchased them straight away and they even gave my a further 5% discount on them.

Honda Stock photo from brochure







The Footwell Lights Kit



Close up of some components

Light unit



Module unit



Loom





First I need to modify the footwell under panels to create a hole (22mm) for the light to shine through

Panels removed



I used the 21mm drill I got for when I installed the parking sensors




I marked up the panels to remove some of the insulation and measured the drill points according to the instructions



Then the drilling commenced



Panels now completed





Once the drilling was out of the way then came the stage to start removing some of the interior panels of the accord. Armed with my trusty interior removal tool I got to work.
First I removed the lower drivers cowling section, door side sill and then the fuse box cover section.







Then I started to install the light modules, control unit and then the loom.

Drivers side light


Passenger Side Light






Once that was complete, the loom was tied to varius sections to the exisiting car loom as per the instructions, a fuse was inserted into the fuse box on the top right section of the fuse box (previously un-used) and all the panels were re-installed.

Upon disarm of the alarm the lights illuminate at full brightness and mimics the interior cabin lights and when the headlights are on the footwell lights output a dim blue glow which is nice.
Really enjoyed installing them and overall very pleased.


Upon Disarm of Alarm and engine stop/Key removal from ignition




Supplier: Watford Bushey Honda (Local Dealership)
Part: Footwell Lights Upgrade Accessory Option
Part Number: 08E10-SEA-600



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[Thebusofwoe]

Well done chap. Just a note, the rear Pistons are always stiff on this type of caliper. I think we have ever only changed one caliper due to seizure in the time I've been here footwell lights look

[prelude_h22]

Well done chap. Just a note, the rear Pistons are always stiff on this type of caliper. I think we have ever only changed one caliper due to seizure in the time I've been here footwell lights look

Thanks @thebusofwoe
On the accord forum the rear calipers are well known to seize on this model but they seem to be ok for now. Do you think its worth just stripping down and rebuilding rather than replacing? My hand brake at the moment holds the car ok but there is a large amount of brake dust accumulation on the rear wheels which makes me think they are sticking.

[Thebusofwoe]

Wow interesting. We never see that type seize up If it was me I would just replace them if they are needed. You can rebuild them but we have found that it's not reliable. So we have stopped rebuilding and we now replace them.

[Doggo]

Nice work

But (and forgive me for saying this) I can't help thinking that if you need to be able to see what your feet are doing when driving, you should perhaps have spent the money on training?

[prelude_h22]

Nice work

But (and forgive me for saying this) I can't help thinking that if you need to be able to see what your feet are doing when driving, you should perhaps have spent the money on training

I guess it was a spur of the moment purchase, I know I didn't need it but when I found out it was still available I just bought it. lol. Nevermind.

[prelude_h22]

Dash Camera Install 15-02-15

Hi All

The missus got me a dash cam for Christmas and I have just managed to find the time to install it.

The dash cam is the 0805 model with some pretty good specs. I have never been in an accident before but you have to agree there are some pretty poor drivers out there and I thought it would be handy to have a device that captures any situation in front of me.

Would like to also thank the forum members for help and advise on dash cams and how to guides for installing. Was a great help 


Here are some specs on this dash cam.

Display Size: 1.5 inch TFT
2304*1296PX 30fps Ultra Clear video
Support WDR (Wide-Dynamic-Range) for superior low light performance
Camera Pixel: 4 Million Pixel CMOS
135 degree of Viewing Angle
Camera rotating 90 degree
Built-in G-sensor
Support HDMI Function, connect to TV for Video and Photo viewing
Support Route Tracking via GPS (with External GPS Module&Antenna)
Support Movement Detection
Support LDWS (Lane Departure Warning System)
Video Compression: H.264,Seamless Link Loop Recording
Support Video Protection, prevent overwrite important video
Video Format: MOV
Video Resolution: 1296P, 1080P; HD720P
Video Frame Rate: 30FPS/60FPS

The kit came with a DC to DC converter hard wiring kit (converts DC 12-24volts down to 5volts which is the voltage required for the camera), it also came with a cigarette lighter plug if you just wanted a plug and play install and a usb cable if you wanted to plug it straight to a computer The camera was chosen with the 32GB micro SD card.







I wanted to hard wire it so the best way of doing this was using the included DC/DC converter and a piggy back fuse by pass connector

Piggy back fuse by pass connector (this would allow me to tap into the fuse box supply whilst creating a separate fused circuit to protect the camera)



DC to DC converter




Prior to installing I removed the blue butt connector and soldered and heat shrinked the piggy back by pass connector directly to the positive wire of the DC to DC converter and then attached a 6mm eyelet terminal for the ground, both heat shrinked






With all basics setup an operation test is required before attempting to install it into the car, this would determine everything is working as it should.

I used my bench top power supply to connect to the positive side of the piggy back fuse connector and the negative to eyelet terminal



With the power supply set to approx 12 volts and a current output of approx 500mA I switched it on








It all powered up ok, the camera switched off when the power was terminated and switched on when the power was back.
The camera was also tested at 14 volts to ensure the DC /DC converter was operational at this voltage.

There is an option to have a device to turn the camera on if the car gets knocked whilst being parked up but I decided not to go for this option.

Once I was confident everything was working, it was down to the car to get it installed

First it began with removing all the panels, similar to the process of installing the foot well lighting kit. Drivers under cowling, A pillar cover, drivers footwell fuse cover and drivers side door sill all had to be removed. I also had to remove the drivers side sun blind fixings. With these fixings removed I could tuck the cable into the roof lining without having to remove any of the centre roof linings map lights etc.





Once these were removed I decided to install the camera base first, this would let me route the cabling up the roof lining first and then tidying the slack near the fuse box.



The cabling then found its way down into the fuse box area where the DC/DC converter was strapped to the main car loom, the piggy back fuse connector then needed to be plugged into a fuse location. I wanted the camera to switch off when the car's ignition was turned off and then switch on when the engine was started. I probed all the fuse locations with my multimeter and position 31 in the fuse box was the one to go for, this location was currently not being used which was a bonus.








The ground terminal was installed in the same location as the foot lights circuit



Once all this was complete a quick fire up of the ignition revealed that everything was working and all the panels were re-installed.

Finished installation shows that it can’t be seen or distract me during driving and easily reachable to press the button on it for instant screen captures.
Really enjoyed installing it and very happy with the results
For the camera circuit I used a 3 Amp fuse to protect it.






Supplier: Combi-org UK (purchased through their ebay account)
Web: http://www.combi.org.uk/products/50/201 ... 96P-&-LDWS
Part: 0805 Mini DVR Camera
Part Number: Model 0805

Supplier: Autoeurope-Uk (ebay)
Web: On Ebay
Part: Mini Fuse Piggy Back By Pass Circuit Connector
Part Number: AFH50M

Supplier: Premier Supplies 2013 (on ebay)
Web: On ebay
Part: 6.5mm inner diameter eyelet terminal
Part Number: N/A

Other parts used
-3Amp regular mini fuse (already had in the tool box)
-Tie straps
-3mm heat shrink
- Soldering tools etc
- Interior trim removal tools (a must)


Future Plans

- Replace Rear Callipers
- Install Genuine New Brake Pads
- Possibly replace all the brake discs (if required)
- Convert boot to auto open (maybe for the future)