Spare-O-Deck 1989

[becca]

NEW ERA ICONS
Top 9: shootin' brakes

https://drivetribe.com/p/F9JPv9CCST2LB2 ... b0gv-jlIOw

Honda’s '80s Accord rocked double wishbone suspension and some slick multi-valve engines, but only the cool Aerodeck version had the style to back up the science.

The rear hatch featured a glass panel that stretched into the roof meaning it opened like a kind of sideways gullwing door.

Love the work on your Aerodeck, (fond of these, my Dad had one and let me drive, superb car and genuine classic)

That's awesome! The Aerodeck always gets left out of 'shooting brake' articles usually! (Also that Lynx Eventer is an ultimate dream car haha!)

Thanks for the kind words

[becca]

Some photos of the bay with the Blox intake mani on, with my 3geez badge (need some little spike bolts or something to cover the holes at each corner though)





And here are some 'in progress' photos of it being modified. I got a bit obsessive over the filing trying to make it look really clean like it came like that haha. This is one of the original bolt holes where it's had to be cut off and then have new holes drilled lower down.





Two photos showing the whole top where it's been shaved down so it doesn't foul the valve cover. The bottom holes on the intake pretty much line up but all the top ones need changing to fit.





ALSO figured out what was going wrong with the maps! Because we're using a generic EPROM programmer you need to set the start point of programming to halfway through the chip or something, on Moates etc. it does it for you automatically knowing it's for a car - so we were starting at 0.

Rectified that, and with the P75 base map (with raised idle resume, after a little research I realised that was recommended for uprated cams so we guessed a figure of raising it by 200 which seems spot on) it now runs without cutting out on idle when warm! HOORAY! Also sits pretty level on the A/FR gauge now too - have yet to take it for a test drive but ran it up to temp, revved it up, and it didn't switch from lean to rich to lean to rich constantly like it did with the previous map.

FINALLY feels like it's getting somewhere and I can actually start thinking about booking it in to be properly dyno tuned (need to sort my exhaust system first, unsure whether to go custom manifold, try modifying a D series stock one, see if that works then modify an aftermarket D one, or get one shipped from US like the Pacesetter or from AUS like the Hurricane header).

Such a huge relief to know it was in the map and not something wrong mechanically or electrically that we'd done during rebuild and mods.

[NafemanNathan]

That's great news! I feel a "Congratulations!" is apt

Although...

(need some little spike bolts or something to cover the holes at each corner though)

... If you go ahead with this I will have to instantly unsubscribe from this thread. I hate those things!!!

Wouldn't you be better off sticking a rectangular brushed bit of aluminum or stainless to cover the area and then you 3Geez badge on top? Or leave it as it is which suits the rugged raw look you already have?

[wurlycorner]

Lol have to say I am with Nafe on the spike bolts every time I see them under a bonnet at shows I think they look crap and like they're trying too hard... But still, it's your car and your choice of course

Impressed with the way you've persevered with this, definitely not the simplest engine to build.

[becca]

I like them, but I also don't like them when a whole bay is full of them. I can't seem to find any little ones though anyway, like small cones, they're all big tall things like you'd get from China

I did consider plating the back but I don't think it would look right having the recess, then a plate, and then also something else stuck on top

I like the little allen headed bolts though which is my other option, just to look like there's not something 'missing' so much. Like miniature versions of the ones that you can see in the photo holding on the adapter bracket (in gold) for my throttle cable. Kind of a bit military looking.


Going for a test drive some time this week to see how this map reacts in an actual driving situation but it's all looking promising!

[NafemanNathan]

I'm trying to work out what you've already got there... Are there bolts threaded from inside the inlet manifold into that plate?

I think you'll draw attention to them if you put anything there. They don't really stand out as it is. I mean there are plenty of other holes and uglies in an engine bay, those are the least of your worries

Obviously you know what you want and that's all that matters...

... But no spikes... Pleeeeeeeeeeeese! lol

[becca]

I'm trying to work out what you've already got there... Are there bolts threaded from inside the inlet manifold into that plate?

I think you'll draw attention to them if you put anything there. They don't really stand out as it is. I mean there are plenty of other holes and uglies in an engine bay, those are the least of your worries

Obviously you know what you want and that's all that matters...

... But no spikes... Pleeeeeeeeeeeese! lol

There are 4 threaded holes on the intake mani, they're basically there to bolt in an 'add on' you can get if you're turbo for vacuum stuff. The Blox badge that comes with it is the right size to hide them but I prefer my 3geez badge it's a bit different, and I'm not a massive fan of the whole 'showing off' brands stuff to brag, or alternatively be belittled for it, unless it's a small company that will benefit from a bit of coverage (eg. Cheddas Auto who I have stickered on my windscreen).

I might dig through the bolt boxes up the unit and try some skanky ones just to see what it looks like, I might even prefer it without you know, I'm just worried it'll look unfinished But you are right, if they stand out too much I'm not gonna like it.



I also forgot to add, I picked up a bloody BARGAIN AEM fuel rail a few weeks ago, £25 posted on eBay, pretty sure it's unused with minor scratches from storage - took a punt thinking I'll send it back if it's fake - emailed AEM a video and photos and they confirmed it's real, massive WIN as they're over £100 new.

Also sorted some injectors, RDX 410cc. I ideally wanted something smaller when I set out searching, but for the price of these and the reputation they have (plus OEM quality) I figured I'll just run them at a lower duty cycle, which will also make them more reliable as they don't have to work so hard, and I have no need for upgrading in future if I plan for more power too.

I haven't fitted the fuel rail or injectors yet as I don't know how the fuelling would react with such huge injectors on a stock map so the plan is to fit them right before it's mapped (I'm going to be trailering it there just in case).

[NafemanNathan]

That is a bargain for the fuel rail. Even if it was used it would have been a bargain!

I've got RDX 410cc injectors as well. I'm currently running S2000 injectors, but I have a custom Rosko Racing fuel rail on a mod'd ATR inlet manifold ready for my big build.

Won't you need some custom adapters for the RDX injectors as well?

[becca]

That is a bargain for the fuel rail. Even if it was used it would have been a bargain!

I've got RDX 410cc injectors as well. I'm currently running S2000 injectors, but I have a custom Rosko Racing fuel rail on a mod'd ATR inlet manifold ready for my big build.

Won't you need some custom adapters for the RDX injectors as well?

They pretty much have the best rep of any injectors on the market for Hondas! Great value for money too.

Yeah, K tuned make the hats for RDX on B series, and the connectors wiring side are the same as some Toyota model (can't remember which) so already have both of those sorted

[becca]

Test drive went well! Around 60miles with no issues! (other than EML for VSS and traction control). Didn't cut out once!

It also sat level on the A/FR the whole time, no mad fluctuation (used to have to constantly adjust throttle position to try to get it from lean towards rich, and vice versa) - it sat around high 12s most of the time when cruising (10.5 and lower is rich, 16.5 and higher is lean from memory) so could be better economy wise but it's fine to run as it is.

Just got to sort exhaust and then it's off to mapping! Got a quote for a custom manifold but it's a little steep and sourcing one from US would be just as much so I think the plan for now is to port out the stock 4-2-1 (I have a spare in case it goes wrong...) and sand blast internally to open it up as much as possible (they're real thick), then custom downpipe into 2 or 2.5" with backbox.

I'm going to get in touch with one of Bruce's friends first though as he did offer to make me a custom manifold and I have basically a full spare engine for him to play with to get it right without needing my car, it all really depends on whether he has the spare time to sort it for me before I want it mapped.