Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.
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Vtecmec's 4th Gen
- Drax
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Vtecmec's 4th Gen
amazing transformation already fair play you dont hang around. update the list of required parts (that you don't have) whenever you can bud and we'll see if there's anything we can help with.
2.2 JDM DOHC SI-VTEC LSD TCS 4WS ABS BB1 MANUAL 1992
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- Vtecmec
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Vtecmec's 4th Gen
The oil feed pipe to the turbo looks the most likely suspect, seems to have been affected by the heat from the manifold. That caused a primary fire which then took out fuel lines, which triggered a secondary blaze.
Some heat resistant pipe lagging would probably have prevented this.
U bend rubber hose from intake to brake booster.
I have a hose in place at the moment, but it is not shaped and probably not suitable.
Some heat resistant pipe lagging would probably have prevented this.
Just this really:
U bend rubber hose from intake to brake booster.
I have a hose in place at the moment, but it is not shaped and probably not suitable.
- Drax
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Vtecmec's 4th Gen
is that the one at the top centre of this pic hanging down like a floppy d....?
2.2 JDM DOHC SI-VTEC LSD TCS 4WS ABS BB1 MANUAL 1992
FOR PAUL
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- Drax
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Vtecmec's 4th Gen
ill check when i get home, im pretty certain i have one
2.2 JDM DOHC SI-VTEC LSD TCS 4WS ABS BB1 MANUAL 1992
FOR PAUL
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- Vtecmec
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Vtecmec's 4th Gen
Excellent, could you bring it to Japfest please.
Let me know what you want for it.
Let me know what you want for it.
- Vtecmec
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Vtecmec's 4th Gen
So, a bit of progress, and in the right direction.......
So after several procurement hurdles, I finally landed a suitable turbo for the car.
This was not easy, and took several weeks to resolve.
The first turbo I bought turned out to be countereit (Holset HX30W), fortunately I got my money back.
The second turbo I ordered turned out to not actually be in stock and was on back order for several weeks (Holset HX 30), fortunately I got my money back.
The third turbo (Garrett G25-550) ended out being the same scenario as the second one and was not actually in stock. And my was it pricey.
Finally I ordered something that arrived in good time. I found a company that sells high quality Garrett clones. It is a Pulsar G25-550. Full ceramic ball bearing, billett wheels, water cooled and better yet you can get rebuild kits and some UK companies happily work on them.
A shot of it fitted in the bay as a test:
I did some air con stuff in preperation for much later too.
I removed the evaporator, gave it a good clean, swapped all of the seals for new ones and replaced the brass thing (whatever it is!).
Off the car:
Full of crap:
Cleaned:
And ready for the car:
It's now refitted in preperation for the full air con system when the time is right.
I say when the time is right as it looks like that with the log manifold I currently have that the air con compressor cannot be accomodated. In fact, I have decided that I am going to make my own over the winter, so the current setup is going to be a bit of a stop gap.
As I am using a different manifold than before, the entire setup changes in the engine bay, with the intake and exhaust now effectvely swapped around. Of course this means that the down pipe I have is no longer any good to me. With that in mind I also have to cut the top 2-3 inches off the exhaust where it comes up into the engine bay.
So I set at it with a grinder and welded a new v band adapter in a location that would work.
And refitted ready for a downpipe:
So on to fabricating said downpipe, with some 90 degree bends and some 22 degree pie cuts, tack welded into place:
Ready for full welding:
Halfway there:
There:
And wrapped for good measure:
Several more hours work later:
Downpipe in place, also showing the alternator that I have had to relocate where the air con compressor normally sits.
This shows how its not really possible for a decent flowing downpipe and the stock alternator position:
Several more hours later after chasing a fuel leak near the tank, another at the fuel pressure sensor and then another at the fuel regulator, a key was turned and the following happened:
The last photo show the car really needs a clean, I've not done anything to the interior since the fire, well apart from some other upgrades...
I never really liked the gauge pods that sit in the radio location, and whilst looking for alternatives on the web, I came across this:
https://www.reveltronics.com/en/product ... ter-utcomp
Looks made for the lude.
To get this thing integrated into the dash cluster meant making room, so I did a bit of rewiring in the standard display cluster, effectively moving some of the warning lights to where the TCS light normally would reside (I don't have TCS anyway).
After a lot of work obtaining sensors, fitting them in the right places and then wiring it all up, I was left with this:
On start up:
I don't have a shot, but I have programmed it to show Fuel pressure, oil pressure, coolant temperature, boost pressure and air/fuel ratio all on one screen.
I have made a switch for the center console and can switch different windows, showing anything from fuel economy, miles remaining on the tank, engine RPM, vehicle speed, and so on and so on.
So after several procurement hurdles, I finally landed a suitable turbo for the car.
This was not easy, and took several weeks to resolve.
The first turbo I bought turned out to be countereit (Holset HX30W), fortunately I got my money back.
The second turbo I ordered turned out to not actually be in stock and was on back order for several weeks (Holset HX 30), fortunately I got my money back.
The third turbo (Garrett G25-550) ended out being the same scenario as the second one and was not actually in stock. And my was it pricey.
Finally I ordered something that arrived in good time. I found a company that sells high quality Garrett clones. It is a Pulsar G25-550. Full ceramic ball bearing, billett wheels, water cooled and better yet you can get rebuild kits and some UK companies happily work on them.
A shot of it fitted in the bay as a test:
I did some air con stuff in preperation for much later too.
I removed the evaporator, gave it a good clean, swapped all of the seals for new ones and replaced the brass thing (whatever it is!).
Off the car:
Full of crap:
Cleaned:
And ready for the car:
It's now refitted in preperation for the full air con system when the time is right.
I say when the time is right as it looks like that with the log manifold I currently have that the air con compressor cannot be accomodated. In fact, I have decided that I am going to make my own over the winter, so the current setup is going to be a bit of a stop gap.
As I am using a different manifold than before, the entire setup changes in the engine bay, with the intake and exhaust now effectvely swapped around. Of course this means that the down pipe I have is no longer any good to me. With that in mind I also have to cut the top 2-3 inches off the exhaust where it comes up into the engine bay.
So I set at it with a grinder and welded a new v band adapter in a location that would work.
And refitted ready for a downpipe:
So on to fabricating said downpipe, with some 90 degree bends and some 22 degree pie cuts, tack welded into place:
Ready for full welding:
Halfway there:
There:
And wrapped for good measure:
Several more hours work later:
Downpipe in place, also showing the alternator that I have had to relocate where the air con compressor normally sits.
This shows how its not really possible for a decent flowing downpipe and the stock alternator position:
Several more hours later after chasing a fuel leak near the tank, another at the fuel pressure sensor and then another at the fuel regulator, a key was turned and the following happened:
The last photo show the car really needs a clean, I've not done anything to the interior since the fire, well apart from some other upgrades...
I never really liked the gauge pods that sit in the radio location, and whilst looking for alternatives on the web, I came across this:
https://www.reveltronics.com/en/product ... ter-utcomp
Looks made for the lude.
To get this thing integrated into the dash cluster meant making room, so I did a bit of rewiring in the standard display cluster, effectively moving some of the warning lights to where the TCS light normally would reside (I don't have TCS anyway).
After a lot of work obtaining sensors, fitting them in the right places and then wiring it all up, I was left with this:
On start up:
I don't have a shot, but I have programmed it to show Fuel pressure, oil pressure, coolant temperature, boost pressure and air/fuel ratio all on one screen.
I have made a switch for the center console and can switch different windows, showing anything from fuel economy, miles remaining on the tank, engine RPM, vehicle speed, and so on and so on.