Congratulations to vtecmec for winning May/June's Lude Of The Month, with his DIY Turbo BB1 build.
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Damski's BB9 Project
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Damski's BB9 Project
another day another post,
282mm Front Discs and Pads + a Rear refresh has been completed, photos to come
Sadly this may be my last post with the Lude, with myself moving into Edinburgh a car is less of a need and also with LEZ coming to Edinburgh aswell... the cars provisionally for sale, photos and full post to come
282mm Front Discs and Pads + a Rear refresh has been completed, photos to come
Sadly this may be my last post with the Lude, with myself moving into Edinburgh a car is less of a need and also with LEZ coming to Edinburgh aswell... the cars provisionally for sale, photos and full post to come
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Damski's BB9 Project
Got some wheels off the Lovely @vanzep and got them fitted. Looking great and ready for a bodykit
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Damski's BB9 Project
another day, another post
finally got my brake swap done! after many delays it's nice to drive the car properly again, for work. Next order is business is taking the calipers off to fully refurb and rebuild then, along with a dust shield swap
finally got my brake swap done! after many delays it's nice to drive the car properly again, for work. Next order is business is taking the calipers off to fully refurb and rebuild then, along with a dust shield swap
- Drax
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Damski's BB9 Project
a lovely dark blue your lude is was the 262-282 a straight swap?
2.2 JDM DOHC SI-VTEC LSD TCS 4WS ABS BB1 MANUAL 1992
FOR PAUL
FOR PAUL
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Damski's BB9 Project
it was yes! after drilling out some rusted screws and screaming at it for a while, went on easily
- vanzep
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Damski's BB9 Project
nicely done 282mm brakes are a fair upgrade for the price
i use an impact driver for brake disc screws - ive just looked my one out to do the rear brakes on my 5th gen
i use an impact driver for brake disc screws - ive just looked my one out to do the rear brakes on my 5th gen
1996-2000 1993 EG9 Blue Civic 1.6 Vti - Traded in against the BB4
2000-2019 1994 2WS BB4 Milano Red JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2015 on > 1991 4WS BB1 Phantom Pearl Grey JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2021 ON > 1998 2WS BB6 White Pearl JDM Prelude Si VTEC
2000-2019 1994 2WS BB4 Milano Red JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2015 on > 1991 4WS BB1 Phantom Pearl Grey JDM Prelude Si VTEC LSD
2021 ON > 1998 2WS BB6 White Pearl JDM Prelude Si VTEC
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Damski's BB9 Project
Gents, I've got a problem.
on the driver side front wheel when driving I have a small sound from the wheel that increases with speed. it's quietens down with braking but returns when accelerating. I believe it's a stuck Caliper but any other ideas before I rebuild the caliper?
on the driver side front wheel when driving I have a small sound from the wheel that increases with speed. it's quietens down with braking but returns when accelerating. I believe it's a stuck Caliper but any other ideas before I rebuild the caliper?
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Damski's BB9 Project
If the sound has come since changing the brakes, then the chances are its the brakes.
Id check a few things - remove the 2 calliper bolts and slide the calliper off.
1) Check that both the pins in the calliper carrier are free to move in and out and round and round. Be carefully not to tear the dust boot. You can remove them, clean up the pins and use some new grease (not too much needed). Be sure to clean out the old grease from the guide in the carrier (cotton but or similar).
2) Check that the calliper carrier is free from corrosion, especially underneath the fitting shims. Clean this up if you can (easier with the carrier off the car). The brake pads should literally drop in / drop out with very little effort. If you have to force them in, then they are too tight and will cause the binding enough to make the noise you describe. Some cheap pads might be slightly too large. I have used a file in the past to remove just a tiny bit of paint to make it fit just right - use some copper grease or similar to prevent them seizing again. Careful not to get any on the disc or pad surface.
3) double check that the disc is true on the hub. A little too much grease or corrosion or small foreign object can cause what you describe, although normally you'd feel it under breaking as well.
4) The calliper piston - the hardest part to check. If you try to remove the dust seal , it will most likely tear. So do this one last. If it looks grotty in there, chances are the piston is rusted, and you are better off ordering some new callipers. You could use the brake pedal to work the piston out a little, then use a clamp to push it back in. Repeating this might free it up a little, but its a sticking plaster really.
Id check a few things - remove the 2 calliper bolts and slide the calliper off.
1) Check that both the pins in the calliper carrier are free to move in and out and round and round. Be carefully not to tear the dust boot. You can remove them, clean up the pins and use some new grease (not too much needed). Be sure to clean out the old grease from the guide in the carrier (cotton but or similar).
2) Check that the calliper carrier is free from corrosion, especially underneath the fitting shims. Clean this up if you can (easier with the carrier off the car). The brake pads should literally drop in / drop out with very little effort. If you have to force them in, then they are too tight and will cause the binding enough to make the noise you describe. Some cheap pads might be slightly too large. I have used a file in the past to remove just a tiny bit of paint to make it fit just right - use some copper grease or similar to prevent them seizing again. Careful not to get any on the disc or pad surface.
3) double check that the disc is true on the hub. A little too much grease or corrosion or small foreign object can cause what you describe, although normally you'd feel it under breaking as well.
4) The calliper piston - the hardest part to check. If you try to remove the dust seal , it will most likely tear. So do this one last. If it looks grotty in there, chances are the piston is rusted, and you are better off ordering some new callipers. You could use the brake pedal to work the piston out a little, then use a clamp to push it back in. Repeating this might free it up a little, but its a sticking plaster really.
'00 UKDM 2.2VTI H22a8
'21 'e' Advance
'21 'e' Advance
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Damski's BB9 Project
Thanks for the Advice, I've just had full rebuild kit and new fitting hardware arrive in the post, so going to regrease and resand. I fitted new slide pins so it isn't that