How to:H22 Auto Tensioner to H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:55 pm

Very easy to follow and includes all Honda part numbers.

Clicky

Post by **Merlin** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:59 pm

Link added.

Im doing this in the coming months, I bought a H22 to H23 conversion kit.

Edit - I found issues with this writeup so I have done my own. See here http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/honda-p ... 18247.html

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 5:40 pm

Same here. Doing it on my Type S before new engine goes in.

Buzzonion Vtec · Post by **Buzzonion Vtec** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:32 pm

A couple of little pointers here

You see in pic 11 where he has a socket on the old tensioner bearing carrier pivot stop and that the tensioner main bolt is still in situ....a word of warning and some advice. If you attempt to remove the bolt shown without first completely removing the tensioner carrier you stand a good chance of breaking the water pump!!!!! This bolt CANNOT be removed with the tensioner carrier still in situ.
In actual fact it doesn't need to be removed at all and should really be left in place even with the manual tensioner conversion.
When the cam belt covers are installed there are two rubber rings that should be fitted (alot are sadly missing these days). One sits over the main tensioner nut and one sits over this long pivot stop bolt along with a small r-clip. These rubbers don't look much but they act as a dust seal and also help prevent warping of the plastic covers by stopping distortion through heat. I've had to scrap pleanty of covers over the years because these two rubbers have been left off at some point causing the cover to warp which in turn allows the crank pulley to rub its way through the plastic.
The pivot stop bolt can be left off if you wish but remember you will be left with a hole in your belt cover and you do run the risk of warping. You have been warned

Another point to mention is that he doesn't show the fitment of the adjuster plate. In not fitting that plate he has left two bolts out of the oil pump which can lead to leaks. The plate sits where the old auto tensioner sat and uses the same bolts and bolt holes. I always use a plate (along with a small m6 bolt to lock the tensioner while adjusting) and I always modify the tensioner a little to allow for a little extra adjustment (slack) rather than run the belt way too tight.

Post by **RattyMcClelland** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:55 pm

Some great advice there.

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Wed Feb 01, 2012 7:28 am

Cheers for the additional pointers Rich

There's something for you to look out for when you finally get my motor... I gave that guide to the mechanic in case he struggled to find the manual's method when he did mine

W1ggz · Post by **W1ggz** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:33 pm

where did you get the coversion kit from

Post by **NafemanNathan** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 11:31 pm

I bought mine in dribs and drabs from ebay, but @Scott@H-Tune sells the full OEM conversion kit now.

W1ggz · Post by **W1ggz** » Wed Dec 12, 2012 11:42 pm

cheers nath i have found his post and pm'd him

Scott@H-Tune · Post by **Scott@H-Tune** » Thu Dec 13, 2012 11:29 am

NafemanNathan wrote:I bought mine in dribs and drabs from ebay, but @Scott@H-Tune sells the full OEM conversion kit now.

Lude Generation

How to:H22 Auto Tensioner to H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion

How to:H22 Auto Tensioner to H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion

Re: How to:H22 Auto Tensioner to H23 Manual Tensioner Conver